CLOSED July 1(?), 2020
120 NE Russell Street
Established 2007
Visited September 15, 2013
Media Exposure: It's criminal Toro Bravo hasn't received national TV exposure as sister restaurant Tasty N Sons. Food & Wine,Town and Country
Toro Bravo takes center stage as one of my two favorite restaurants in Portland, possibly anywhere. They make outside the box foods in the realm of the brave as their namesake. Arrive early or go solo. When I arrived, it was full but I scored a lone opening at the bar.
French Kiss. Brandy soaked prunes with foie gras chilled firm. The creamy texture hit first followed by the subtle growing burn of the brandy. A "adult food" with varied notes of complexity. I tried it to say I tried it. It's pretentious. Eating foie gras and saying you like it is saying you're better than me.
Harissa Stewed Butternut Squash with Sheep's Cheese. Words fail to describe the greatness of this dish. I'm not a fan of squash but this was prepared so perfectly with the harissa and cheese that my mouth said meat! If I had been blindfolded and told this was meat, I would have believed it. Rich, creamy, decadent. The harissa provided a mild to moderate level spiciness and sweetness that contributed to the perfection of flavors. With this dish, Toro Bravo had me at hello.
Recipe for the Squash
Squid Ink Pasta with Hazelnuts, Anchovy Syrup, and Egg Yolk. I tried this at the suggestion of the stranger to my left with whom I struck up a conversation. This dish was one of his favorites. The pasta was cooked to perfection. Raw or runny eggs always makes food taste better. The taste reminded me of not so subtle Asian shrimp paste. Then I reviewed the menu and realized it was the anchovy syrup. Fishy, salty, and smooth. This was another wow dish almost the masterpiece of the harissa squash.
Grilled corn with pesto. This was offered by the kindness of the stranger to my right with whom I struck up a conversation. Again wow. Toro took simple corn on the cob that most restaurants serve as an afterthought side dish and elevated into a centerpiece. Sweet, smoky, and bursting with flavor.
With so many offerings and what the strangers say is consistent goodness, I can't foresee any time soon that another restaurant will knock Toro Bravo from the top of my favorite list. What's next?
Probability of making an out of the way return: 100%
Probability of returning if in the area: 100%
Bottom Line: The REAL DEAL
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