CLOSED 2024?
704 Cleveland Ave S
Established 1996
Visited December 29, 2008
Media Exposure: Man vs. Food Nation
What: Authentic pizza given the Italian government's seal of approval.
The Margherita is the acid test of the pizzaiola's mojo. It's a subtle pizza that makes overstimulated Americanized palate work to appreciate the flavors and it was only with the second slice that my taste buds kicked in. The San Marzano tomatoes added a wonderful sweetness. This was the first pizza I had that was absent tartness, a great thing difficult accomplishment. The basil and cheese were subtle but worked to create a well blended pizza.
Despite a 800 degree wood burning oven, the pizza arrived tepid with a center soggy crust. I expected slices able to ward off gravity and stay perpendicular to the mouth. Instead the point followed gravity's path, and all slices were folded to facilitate shoving into the face. Charred black spots on the crust underside further confirmed the crust should have been firm and crispy. I believe the pie was crispy but allowed to steam soften on the plates delivered late by the unctuous with the manicured moneyed customer waitress.
Must national hype equate to pretentious wait service?
Bottom Line: Hype
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